This legendary GR16 trail, sometimes called Belgium’s GR20 due to its views and elevation changes, offers a beautiful route starting rather flat from the Semois source in Arlon to its confluence with the Meuse in Monthermé. You reach it after 209 kilometers of hiking. While walking along the Semois and through forests feels peaceful in the first part, the GR16 also challenges hikers with demanding slopes requiring plenty of climbing and scrambling. The effort pays off with vast, majestic landscapes.
I decided to make this walk alone and have some time alone, and I hardly crossed any other hikers during these cold winter days.
Getting to Arlon
Take the direct train from Brussels-North or any other Brussels station to Arlon, running hourly. It’s a pleasant 2-hour ride, perfect for reading a book and having breakfast. With the new SNCB Train+ ticket in off-peak hours, it costs just 12.4 EUR.
Why GR16?
I chose GR16 for a “true” red-white marked GR trail, not a regional one, that’s still easily accessible by train in the Ardennes. The path follows the Semois Valley over about 209 km with over 4400m positive elevation, ideal for nature lovers seeking challenge. I only hiked the first tens of kilometers this time.
Starting in Arlon
Climb to the St Donatus church viewpoint atop the hill in the city center to kick off the real hike with a good view. To skip the center of Arlon, opt for the greener GR16 alternative start from the railway station. Caution, if you take the main GR16 starting in the city center: Just outside Arlon, the trail splits—avoid the “boucle verte” or you’ll loop back to the station after an hour (as I did). Stay right and follow the GR signs straight ahead.
My First Stages
Typically, I hike step by step, hour per hour just following the signs without checking my phone or maps until around 16:00. At that time, I check my position, enough before sunset and when Booking.com prices have already dropped, and book the best hotel; day 1 aligned perfectly with Hotel Papillon d’Or for 71 EUR plus 12 EUR breakfast, at a good hour hiking along the GR16 from where I was doing my research… check the packing essentials, because you can’t be lucky every day!
I hiked 3-4 hours on days 1 and 2, then found the nearest station on day-2 (Marbehan) and hitchhiked—the third car got me to the station in 10 minutes for the direct train to Brussels.
Packing Essentials
A spontaneous GR hike in winter demands more prep than summer hikes:
- Food for 3-4 meals at least (fruits, bars, canned food, water); few shops or restaurants en route (knock on a door for water or food if needed).
- Warm layers for rain or snow: rain pants/jacket, hat, scarf, gloves.
- Emergency camping gear: knife, lighter, warm sleeping bag (hotels sparse; only one in my 2-hour hiking radius).
- Offline GPX file of the route (download here) and powerbank for offline apps like GPS Hiker.
If you’re in for a good rough minimalist nature hike in the Belgian Ardennes, this one is for you!
Carbon Conscious Travel 