spain – Carbon Conscious Travel

Sustainable travel in Girona: Catching the winter sun & GR92

February 6, 2025February 8, 2025Posted in train travel, walkingTagged Brussels, europe, hiking, nature, night train, shoulder season, spain, tourism, train, travelLeave a comment

This winter trip was perfect for recharging my batteries. In early February, I traveled to Girona for an aviation conference where I discussed challenges in the aviation industry, rail connections, and Sustainable Aviation Fuel. Besides the conference, I also took the time to explore Girona and hike part of the famous GR92 trail, which is featured in one of the most-read posts on this blog.

With a bit of luck (and lots of hard work by the European Sleeper team), there should be a night train that stops in Girona from 2026 or 2027. That will make the journey extra easy: board in Brussels in the evening, wake up in Girona!

I departed from Brussels at 10:17 AM on Sunday. My journey included a stop in Valence, with a 2-hour wait, before continuing to Girona, arriving at 8:45 PM. Although I booked all my trains via SNCF, I later realized that booking the second part through RENFE could have provided a shorter waiting time of just 25 minutes. Despite this, the return ticket in first class was only slightly more expensive than second class, costing me 300 EUR. I returned on Thursday. Other options to get to Girona are to switch in Lyon, or switch stations in Paris.

Since Monday and Tuesday were packed with conference activities, I made the most of my work trip by:

Waking up early for sports
Taking a guided tour of Girona in the late afternoon
Taking one day off to enjoy nature and hike the GR92

Highlights from My Girona Adventure

1. Morning Trail Run to Castell de Sant Miquel

One of my most memorable experiences was a morning trail run to Castell de Sant Miquel. The 14-kilometer loop offered breathtaking sunrise views from the tower of the castle. Whether you choose to run, hike, or mountain bike, this trail is a must. Starting my run at 6:50 AM in the dark, I reached the castle just in time for the sunrise. Returning to Girona, I was showered and ready for the conference by 9:00 AM. You can find the GPX track here.

2. Free Walking Tour of Girona

In the late afternoon, I joined a free walking tour of Girona. The tour is available in Spanish at 4:00 PM and in English at 11:00 AM (link here). The two-hour tour with Juan provided rich background stories and insights into the city’s architecture and urban history. I finished the day with a sunset on the Muralles de Girona, a long stretch of walls you can walk or run on.

3. Morning Run to Montjuic Castle

For another early morning run, I decided to explore Montjuic Castle. Using Google Maps, I navigated the narrow streets of Girona and reached the castle in under 30 minutes. It’s a fantastic way to start the day, with great views and a sense of accomplishment.

4. Hiking the GR92 Trail

I devoted a day to hiking part of the GR92 trail, a route I had previously enjoyed on a past holiday with Tine. Getting to the trail from Girona required a bit of planning:

Take a bus from Girona bus station to Palafrugell (circa 1 hour), departing hourly and costing 7.5 euros each way. Best to leave at 8:30 or earlier if you want to make it on time for the last bus back to Girona in the evening.
Hike from Palafrugell to Platja de Tamariu along a local trail (about 1 hour).
Follow the GR92 route marked with red and white stripes for about 6 hours and follow the GPX track here (it’s free). The trail offers stunning views, charming villages, and seafood restaurants that are often open even in winter.
- Make sure to bring a towel so you can go swimming in the sea. I went in the 14°C water in one of the small bays and heated up with the winter sun. It was amazing!

Return to Girona by bus from Palamos Hospital, ensuring to wait on the main road rather than at the roundabout. Buses depart hourly, with the last one at 7:30 PM.

Some additional recommendations:

Excellent breakfast (or spa / hotel) in Casa Heras de Puig
Light breakfast in Originem
I booked the cheapest airbnb ever and really enjoyed the historic interior, even with the hard bed (Rambla de la llibertat)
Museum of architect Fundacio Rafael Maso
Jardi de l’Angel – beautiful park
Cathedral
Other restaurant recommendations I got but did not have time to try: B-12 vegan restaurant and 8de7

Embrace “Shouldering of the Season” for Sustainable Travel

To wrap up, I want to share a key concept in sustainable travel: “Shouldering of the season.” Many popular destinations suffer from overtourism during peak months, leading to overcrowding while struggling to sustain tourism the rest of the year. By traveling during the winter or in off-peak seasons, you can help flatten the peak of high-season tourism. This provides locals with a more stable income year-round and enhances your travel experience with fewer crowds and better service.

For Girona, the weather was surprisingly pleasant even in early February. In contrast, the summer heat can be too intense for hiking and trail running, making winter an ideal time to explore this beautiful city.

My sunny journey to Girona was very enjoyable and combining business with leisure, I experienced the best of what Girona has to offer.

Brussels-Lisbon by train – seat61.com

November 12, 2023November 12, 2023Posted in bike travel, train travel, walkingTagged belgium, Brussels, cycling, hiking, Lisbon, Portugal, spain, tourism, train, travelLeave a comment

When traveling to the World Aviation Festival to hold a presentation on Sustainable Aviation Fuel (SAF), I wanted to make a statement. That’s where I needed the website of The Man in Seat 61 to guide me towards the best train itinerary to get to Lisbon. For more info on why I was at the World Aviation Festival, check out the video at https://www.green-trail.eu/

I would have taken my first flight in 4 years, only if I could buy a ticket with truly transparent SAF certificates… which was not possible. I tried all I could to buy fuel straight from different producers, but none were capable of selling it to me within the first 6 months. So I decided to go to Lisbon by train!

It took me two full days to go and another two to get back. It was a beautiful trip, but a tiring one. Before Covid, I would have been able to travel to Madrid on day 1, and the same evening take a night train, waking up in Lisbon the next day… but that train has been canceled leading to a hilarious situation: it takes 3 trains with transfers in the middle of nowhere to get from one capital to the next. All details of the trip can be found here on Seat61.com. I took a stopover in Madrid where I slept in the Latroupe Prado hostel and had some good tapas in El Alambic around the corner.

It’s important to mention that for the return journey, the transfer time in Badajoz is too tight with only 10 minutes in between, while the bus-like train that takes you there always has a delay of 10 minutes or more. We were very lucky that the high-speed train to Madrid waited for us and that we arrived just 13 minutes late… since the train would have left 2 minutes after anyway, with no more options to make it to Madrid that night except for a 500 EUR taxi or a hitchhiking adventure.

I went to Portugal for work and spent some days in Ericeira and Lisbon. For 9 days I took a small backpack and my folding bike… and given the many train connections to get, I would definitely recommend packing light. If you are not in a hurry, you certainly want to split the travel into 2 or 3 segments so you can enjoy it more. Possible stops are Barcelona, Madrid, Entroncamento, or Badajoz.

Recommendations in Lisbon

Miradouro da Senhora do Monte – nice views for sunset
Secret garden – bar with concerts and basic restaurant, just under Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Sao Vicente de Fora – monastery
Parque Eduardo VII – a nice big park in the city center
Jardim do Torel – also with nice views
Viewpoints from Largo Portas do Sol
Ruta de Sao Pedro de Alcantara – for the famous tramway going uphill
Santa Justa Lift – take cash or you don’t get in!
Praça do Comercio – big square on the waterfront

Recommendations in Ericeira

Getting there: you can get there easily by taking the direct bus from Lisbon Campo Grande to Ericeira.
Selina hostel: If you’re traveling alone, stay in the Selina hostel with yoga in the morning, a small swimming pool, a healthy breakfast, and a good restaurant.
Surf: There are plenty of surf schools. Depending on the swell, beginner classes get canceled on some beaches. You might want to consult multiple schools and ask for the maximum number of students per teacher, which should be 4 or 5 max and not 10 per teacher… leading to a lot of frustration.
Mountainbike: we rented mountain bikes, and did an incredibly beautiful tour with a guide from Take Off e-bike for 35 euros per person only.
Skatepark & halfpipe: Boardriders Quiksilver Roxy flagship store has its own huge halfpipe and skatepark. They also offer all kinds of surf and skate courses.
Sunset locations:
- Mar das Latas – wine bar with perfect views for sunset
- Praia da Empa / Pedra Branca reserve – views from the top of the rocks for sunset
Restaurants:
- La Popular Taberna
- Mar d’Areia – fish restaurant
- Howm by Maikai
- Mar das Latas – need to reserve, always full

So, Brussels to Lisbon by train is an option if you have some time. If you need to rush it in the shortest possible time frame it soon feels like a bit too much. Perfect for a holiday trip, less perfect for work 😉

Mediterranean hike in Spain – GR92

February 10, 2019December 21, 2023Posted in UncategorizedTagged camping, France, GR, GR92, hiking, spain, travel3 Comments

The trip I’m describing in this post dates back from the summer of 2016. But since it was one of the nicest hikes I have done in Europe so far, I still wanted to share it.

The start of the hike is easy to reach by train. If you come from Belgium you can take a high-speed train to Perpignan (probably transfering in Paris or in Lyon), and then a smaller train (or hitchike) to Vilajuiga. When we did the trip we first spent 2 days in Barcelona visiting some friends and then took the train to Vilajuiga. On the way back we hitchhiked from Argèles to Perpignan where we took the train back to Brussels.

This part of the GR92 is a rather easy part, except for the heat when hiking inland. So make sure you always take enough supplies so you can easily spend a full night and day in nature without having to worry about food and water. The heat can be impressive so taking plenty of sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat is really needed. For sleeping we made a mix between camping in the wild in the mountains or on beaches, some campings and some small hotel rooms. To be specific: we did not always walk on the GR92 itself but made some variations first to get to the GR92, and later to avoid lost kilometers when looking for a camping spot.

With kids: We have done the walk before we had kids, but since most hikes were not too long, it should be possible to do this either with one kid in a hiking backpack, or from the age of 6-8 years old if you let them walk for a while. Strollers are not really possible since many parts have small tracks. To reduce weight you could opt not to go camping and always take a little hotel… or if you go camping and your little one is still small, you might want to bring a little baby tent. More details on that in the third bullet point of our blogpost about train travel with kids.

Day 1: Vilajuiga to Serra de Rodes

On the first day we took the time to get from Barcelona to Vilajuiga by train and to do some grocery shopping so we would be well prepared for the hike. In the tourism office we asked a map and best route to start, since the first part is not directly on the GR92. We left Vilajuiga around 16pm so there would be a little less sun for the first climb. After about 3-4 hours we reached the top and took our sunset picknick with a five star view on the sea.

Day 2: Serra de Rodes to Cadaques

Waking up was impressive: the location where we pitched our tent was actually above the clouds and we couldn’t see the sea, but where we were the sun was shining. By visiting the Sant Pere de Rodes monastery, we split the hike in two parts to avoid walking in the heat at noon. In the afternoon we continued our hike to Cadaques where we spent the night in “camping Cadaques” at the side of the village. It’s worth spending enough time here: very good restaurants, lovely village and plenty of culture since Dali had a house there that is now transformed in a museum.

Day 3: Cadaques – Cap de Creus

We started the day relaxing in Cadaques, having a very good lunch at Lua with seafood: highly recommended. We rented a sit-on-top kayak for a couple of hours and did a tour in all the small bays around Cadaques. The hiking part only started by the end of the day to avoid the heat.

Nature between Cadaques and Cap de Creus is impressive. It looks like a moon landscape and has plenty of small bays and beaches to relax on. That night, after visiting the lighthouse and the restaurant of Cap de Creus, we camped on a small beach (Cala Fredosa) next to the Cap, since there was way too much wind and thunderstorm expected for that night.

Day 4: Cap de Creus – El Port de la Selva

The fourth day started very rainy, so we hiked faster to Port de La Selva and stayed in a small hotel (Hostal Sol i Sombra).

Day 5: El port de la Selva – Colera

Camping Sant Miquel, a nice place with a swimming pool to relax. The village itself is not the most impressive place… but hiking on to Portbou would have been just a little too much.

Day 6: Colera – Portbou

A short walk away from Colera crossing the mountain is Portbou. The views on this frontier city is impressive, mainly due to all the railway infrastructure. In the old days trains had to be switched from the French to the Spanish wheel base to continue their journey.

It’s in Portbou that we met with David, an old university friend from when we studied in Mexico. It’s a small city with some nice atmosphere and a modern art installation in nature south of the esplanade. We were there when the local festivities were taking place. We stayed at David’s place for the night.

Day 7: Portbou – Cerbère – Banyuls-sur-mer – Collioure

This was a long hike of more than seven hours passing multiple villages and crossing the Spain-France border walking.

Cities are always harder to camp, but in Collioure we found ourselves a good spot behind the Miradou fortress. Nicely hidden in the bushes.

Day 8: Collioure – Perpignan

On the last day of the hike we started hiking up to Argelès-sur-mère. And after a couple of hours decided that it was time to hitchike to Perpignan. If you make sure to check the timetables upfront you can certainly also catch a train.

p.s. All images have been taken with an older iphone so the image quality is not always very high

If you like long hikes, make sure to also check the following posts:

How to get lost following GR routes in Flanders
Hiking through Corsica
Walking the Transardennaise