The GR98 glides through one of Europe’s most striking nature parks: Calanques National Park, washed by impossibly blue Mediterranean waters, carved by creeks, dreamy beaches, and framed by monumental cliffs like the Cap Canaille. Whether you’re a rugged adventurer eager to camp beneath the stars or a family with children seeking an unforgettable blend of nature and relaxation, this journey belongs on every carbon-conscious traveler’s wish list. We visited parts of the GR98, Cassis and Marseille early November and generally speaking the weather was still nice and warm. It’s a good trip for an autumn escape to the sun!
A. For Adventurous Backpacker Hikers
- The GR98 is a legendary trek. The part between Marseille to Cassis, typically takes two days through demanding terrain that rewards you with constant views of limestone cliffs, sparkling creeks, wild pine forests, and turquoise beaches. The full GR98 hiking route between Marseille and Cassis covers about 28–36 km, depending on the precise start/end (and optional detours). The hike typically takes between 9.5 and 12 hours for most hikers, though some fit groups or experts may complete it in 6–8 hours if conditions are ideal and with minimal breaks. Terrain is demanding with substantial elevation change (around 1,500–2,300 meters total ascent/descent). It is generally considered an all-day or two-day hike for most walkers.
- Wild camping is officially prohibited in the National Park, but many hikers bivouac well off the trail. Choose dawn or dusk for finding a discreet spot, leave no trace, and avoid fire hazards.
- Essential tips:
- Carry 3L of water/person per day (no sources en route!), sun protection, hat, and grippy shoes. The limestone can be slippery after rainy weather.
- Morning runs are magical: from Cap Canaille towards the North, or deep into the Calanques. If you want solitude, you’ll find it outside high-season or before 8 am.
- Cap Canaille is Europe’s highest sea cliff and the views are unforgettable.
- Combine with a swim at Calanque de Port Pin
- Navigation is straightforward: follow the famous red and white GR signs
- In low season you’ll feel alone in the world. In midsummer you will have to start early or late to avoid crowds and the heat.
B. For Families With Kids
- Cassis and Marseille make ideal bases, connected by direct train from Brussels: city-center to city-center in under 6 hours, with small kids riding free. Use folding strollers (Yoyo type) with scoot boards or baby carriers—no stroller can handle the GR98, and with kids you’ll have to manage shorter sections and get the best out of both places.
- Warning: the Calenques paths are not kids friendly, so on the most dangerous parts I would have our 4-year old on my shoulders or firmly holding his hands. Cliffs are steep and dangerous.
Cassis
- Base yourself several days in Cassis (Airbnb is optimal for multi-generational & multi-room stays): we explored the old port, took a boat tour of 8 Calanques, and enjoyed family-friendly restaurants like Cassis et Romarin and Chez Poulette.
- Family hikes: Limit walks to 1-2 hours—enough to reach Calanque de Port Miou or Port Pin from Cassis. Four year old August loved collecting sticks under the pines and rocky parts to clamber on.
- Take morning swims at Plage du Corton or Calanque de Port Pin. The water is clear, the setting super beautiful.
- For longer hiker parents: Go out for morning runs in the Calanques or up Cap Canaille, switching off so both parents enjoy ‘trail time’.
- The boat tours from Cassis are a safe way for families to experience the dramatic coastline—including Cap Canaille’s towering cliffs and the marine richness of the park.
Marseille
- In Marseille, stay near Plage des Catalans for sunsets, jump between beach swims and city explorations, and hike to Notre Dame de la Garde for panoramic views.
The train journey
- We took the train from Brussels to Marseille on Wednesday morning at 6:37… arrived nicely on time at 12:25 and jumped straight on the 12:35 train to Cassis. But even if we would have missed it, there’s a train every half an hour.
- Our train going cost 103 EUR/person (we booked the kids free on our seat for Joanna & August), return was 90 EUR/person… so kind of affordable and super convenient to be from city center to city center in less than 6 hours.
- We travelled back the week after with the afternoon train from Marseille, after having a good lunch at the stunning Brasserie Les Fenêtres and walking to the Saint-Charles station, and left at 15:12, arriving in Brussels at 20h56. Again a smooth journey.
- We travelled with a 4 year old and a 6 months old baby, so we took a light small foldable stroller (yoyo kind of), with a two wheeled plank behind it to put our 4-year old on. We also brought the baby carrying bag, which we used in the station and on the train.
- We took 2 hiking backpacks: Tine’s had her clothes and those of Joanna, mine had my stuff and Augusts’
- Important for the train is taking a lot of drinking water and food, and some small toys. I would sit a lot in the compartment to exit the train with the folding seats, where August or Joanna could make as much noise as they wanted. And we visited the bar coach a couple of times where there’s even more space to play. We were seated in the coach with the diaper changing room, very convenient.
Restaurant recommendations
Our restaurant recommendations in Cassis:
- Cassis et Romarin
- Chez Poulette a Cassis
- Chill beach bar at Same Same Beach
Our restaurant recommendations in Marseille:
- Brunch at Beans
- Lunch with an impressive view and historic architecture on the terrace of Brasserie Les Fenêtres
- Rooftop of Hotel Sofitel Marseille – absolutely impressive views for the evening, after sunset
- 1860 Le Palais
Return to GR98 Nature
The GR98 and the Calanques will leave you humbled by nature’s scale and beauty. Traveling by train gifted us the luxury of a low-carbon journey, while sunny days among rocks, creeks, and beautiful views created memories our family (and legs) won’t soon forget.
Ready to experience this landscape’s magic for yourself? Pack light, hike with care, swim where the water is most blue, and let the Calanques and Cap Canaille feed your carbon-conscious spirit—whether you’re pushing your limits or sharing your love of the wild with your children.
Carbon Conscious Travel 